Land Rover Defender 300Tdi workshop guide

Engine oil & filter change

Steps

1. Run the engine for 5 minutes so the oil flows freely. Park level, stop the engine, and remove the oil filler cap.
2. Undo the sump drain plug and let the oil drain for at least 10 minutes. Look at the oil and the plug: fine grey sludge is normal wear; metal flakes or milky oil need investigating.
3. Refit the drain plug with a new washer. Snug it up firmly; do not overtighten.
4. Renew the filter. Canister type: undo the centre bolt, discard the element and the rubber sealing ring, clean the bowl and seat the new ring fully in its groove. Spin-on type: oil the new seal and tighten by hand ¾ of a turn after it touches.
5. Refill with 15W-40 mineral, API CH or better (10W-40 below −10 °C) (6.65 L including filter). Start the engine and check for leaks at the filter. Stop, wait 2 minutes and top up to the high mark on the dipstick.
6. Log the mileage here, then take the old oil to a recycling point.

Air filter element

Steps

1. Release the clips on the air cleaner housing and remove the element.
2. Wipe out the housing. Check the dump valve (rubber valve at the bottom of the housing) is soft and not split.
3. Fit the new element, making sure it seats all round. Check the intake hose and clips; a split hose lets unfiltered air in.
4. In dusty or wading use, inspect every 3,000 miles and after every deep wade.

Fuel filter change & bleed

Steps

1. Clean around the filter head. Unscrew the filter and catch the diesel.
2. Oil or wet the new seal with diesel. Fill the new filter with clean diesel if you can, then fit it hand tight.
3. Bleed: open the bleed screw on the filter head and operate the lift-pump priming lever (or hand primer) until fuel flows without bubbles. Close it.
4. Crank the engine in short bursts. If it will not start, bleed at the injection pump bleed screw as your manual describes.
5. Check for leaks with the engine running.

Drain fuel sedimenter / water trap

Steps

1. Find the sedimenter (usually on the chassis rail, inside the left or right front wheel arch).
2. Slacken the drain tap at the bottom and let it run into a container until clean diesel comes out with no water.
3. Close the tap. If a lot of water came out, drain again after a week and check your fuel source.

Timing belt, tensioner & idler

Steps

1. Disconnect the battery. Remove the fan, fan cowl, auxiliary belt and crank pulley.
2. Remove the timing cover. Turn the engine to TDC on No.1 and fit the flywheel locking pin and the injection pump timing pin. Do not turn the engine again until reassembly.
3. Slacken the tensioner, remove the belt and inspect the cover backplate for wear where a belt has rubbed. On the 300Tdi, check the backplate and fit the later-type cover if the belt has been walking.
4. Fit the new tensioner and idler, then the new belt with no slack on the drive side. Tension it to the figure in your manual using a torque wrench on the tensioner or a gauge.
5. Remove the timing pins, turn the engine by hand two full turns, refit the pins to confirm timing, and re-check the tension.
6. Fit a new crank seal, refit the cover and pulley to the correct torque, and log the job with the belt kit brand.

Check & adjust valve clearances

Steps

1. Remove the rocker cover. Note whether your engine is set hot or cold (see below) and work accordingly.
2. Number the valves 1–8 from the front of the engine.
3. Use the 'rule of nine' on a 4-cylinder: with valve 8 fully open adjust valve 1, valve 7 open adjust 2, and so on (the two numbers always add up to 9). Clearance: 0.20 mm (0.008 in), inlet and exhaust; rule of nine.
4. Slacken the locknut, turn the adjuster until the feeler gauge is a light drag, hold the adjuster and tighten the locknut, then re-check.
5. Refit the rocker cover with a new gasket. Run the engine and check for oil leaks.

Fan / auxiliary belt check

Steps

1. With the engine stopped, inspect the belt for cracks across the ribs, glazing, fraying and oil contamination.
2. Check tension: about ½ in (12 mm) deflection midway along the longest run under firm thumb pressure. Self-tensioning belts: check the tensioner sits within its marks and does not judder with the engine running.
3. Spin the alternator (or dynamo), water pump and idler pulleys by hand where you can. Listen for rumbling bearings.
4. On a dynamo (Lucas C40, early vehicles): put 2–3 drops of engine oil in the hole in the rear end-plate bearing.

Coolant drain, flush & refill

Steps

1. Work on a cold engine only. Remove the expansion tank or radiator cap slowly.
2. Open the radiator drain (or remove the bottom hose) and the cylinder block drain tap or plug. Set the heater to hot.
3. Flush with clean water until it runs clear. Squeeze every hose: replace any that feel soft, crunchy or swollen.
4. Check the radiator fins, fan blades and (where fitted) the viscous coupling. A viscous fan should turn with some resistance when the engine is warm.
5. Refill with a 50% antifreeze mix (11.1 L, 50% IAT (blue) ethylene-glycol antifreeze). Fill slowly to avoid air locks; on coil-sprung models use the bleed screw on the thermostat housing or radiator top where fitted.
6. Run the engine to working temperature with the cap off (or loose), top up as the level drops, refit the cap and check again when cold.

Grease propshafts

Steps

1. Wipe each nipple clean. Grease both UJs and the sliding joint on each propshaft.
2. Check each UJ for play by twisting the shaft against its flange.
3. Check the propshaft flange bolts are tight.

Check swivel housings & seals

Steps

1. Check each swivel ball for pitting, rust and leaks.
2. EP90 swivels: check the level plug and top up. One-shot grease swivels: no routine top-up, but check for leaks and grease weeping from the seal.
3. Check the CV joint for clicking on full lock.

Check gearbox, transfer & axle oil levels

Steps

1. Park level. Remove the level plugs on the gearbox, transfer box and both diffs in turn and top up each.
2. Check the transfer box output seals: oil leaking onto the handbrake drum (rear of the transfer box) stops the handbrake working.
3. Check the axle and gearbox breather pipes are not kinked or blocked.

Change gearbox & transfer box oil

Steps

1. Drive to warm the oil. Drain the gearbox and transfer box.
2. Clean the magnetic drain plugs and look for chips.
3. Refill each to its level plug with the specified oil.

Change front & rear axle oil

Steps

1. Drain both differentials warm.
2. Check the drain plugs for chips.
3. Refill to the level plugs and check the breathers.

Steering & power steering check

Steps

1. Check the PAS reservoir level and the hoses for leaks.
2. With a helper rocking the wheel, watch each ball joint, the steering box mounting and the steering column UJs for play.
3. Check the steering damper for leaks and that it resists movement smoothly.
4. Check the steering box mounting bolts and the chassis around them for cracks.

Inspect pads, discs & brake hoses

Steps

1. Remove the wheels. Check pad thickness; replace at 3 mm.
2. Check discs for scoring, lips and minimum thickness (stamped on the disc or in your manual).
3. Check the caliper pistons are not seized: the pads should move freely.
4. Check flexible hoses and steel pipes, especially pipes on the rear axle.

Adjust transmission handbrake

Steps

1. Chock the wheels. Release the handbrake.
2. Turn the adjuster on the back-plate (at the rear of the transfer box) until the drum locks, then back it off until it turns freely.
3. Check the lever holds the vehicle on a slope at 3–4 clicks.
4. If the shoes are oily, replace the transfer box output seal as well as the shoes.

Brake & clutch fluid change

Steps

1. Bleed the brakes in the order your manual gives (ABS models have a specific order).
2. Keep the reservoir topped up so no air gets in.
3. Bleed the clutch slave cylinder.
4. Check the pedal is firm before driving.

Suspension bushes, arms & dampers

Steps

1. Lever gently at each bush: radius arms, panhard rod, rear trailing links and A-frame ball joint.
2. Check coil springs are seated correctly in their pans and not cracked.
3. Check shock absorbers for leaks and the mounting turrets for rust.

Wheel bearings & hub seals

Steps

1. Jack each wheel up and check for play by rocking the tyre top and bottom.
2. If there is play, remove the drive member and adjust the hub bearing nut to the end-float in your manual, then fit a new lock tab washer.
3. Check the drive member splines and the axle shaft splines for wear.

Chassis & bulkhead inspection, rust-proofing

Steps

1. Wash the underside thoroughly and let it dry.
2. Tap the chassis with a small hammer. A dull thud or flaking means rust. Check the rear crossmember, the outriggers, the spring hangers and around the rear body mounts.
3. Check the bulkhead footwells and door pillar feet, the windscreen frame corners, and the steel door frames where they meet the aluminium skins.
4. Check the fuel tank straps and brake pipe clips.
5. Inject cavity wax into the chassis rails through the existing holes and treat any bare metal.

Annual safety inspection

Steps

1. Lights: every light works, including brake lights, indicators, reverse light and number plate light.
2. Wipers and washers clear the screen. Horn works.
3. Seat belts latch, retract and are not frayed. Seat mounts are secure.
4. Exhaust: no blows and the mountings are secure.
5. Tyres: tread depth, cuts, bulges and age. Check the spare too.
6. Brakes pull up straight and the handbrake holds on a hill.

Monthly walk-round checks

Steps

1. Engine oil on the dipstick between the marks.
2. Coolant level (check cold), brake and clutch fluid levels, washer fluid.
3. Tyre pressures (including the spare) and look for cuts.
4. Look under the vehicle where it has been parked. Note the colour of any drips: brown/black = oil, green/blue/orange = coolant, red = ATF or PAS, clear and slippery = brake fluid.
5. All lights work.