Land Rover Series III 2.6 six-cylinder petrol workshop guide

Engine oil & filter change

Steps

1. Run the engine for 5 minutes so the oil flows freely. Park level, stop the engine, and remove the oil filler cap.
2. Undo the sump drain plug and let the oil drain for at least 10 minutes. Look at the oil and the plug: fine grey sludge is normal wear; metal flakes or milky oil need investigating.
3. Refit the drain plug with a new washer. Snug it up firmly; do not overtighten.
4. Renew the filter. Canister type: undo the centre bolt, discard the element and the rubber sealing ring, clean the bowl and seat the new ring fully in its groove. Spin-on type: oil the new seal and tighten by hand ¾ of a turn after it touches.
5. Refill with 20W-50 (10W-40 in cold climates) (≈5.7 L (6 US qt) excluding filter). Start the engine and check for leaks at the filter. Stop, wait 2 minutes and top up to the high mark on the dipstick.
6. Log the mileage here, then take the old oil to a recycling point.

Clean oil-bath air cleaner

Steps

1. Release the clips and lift the oil-bath cleaner out (it is under the bonnet on the left side on most Series models).
2. Lift out the wire-mesh element and wash it in paraffin or diesel. Let it drain.
3. Empty the bowl, scrape out the sludge, wipe it clean.
4. Refill with engine oil to the level mark. Oil-bath cleaner, ≈0.57 L (1.2 US pt) engine oil.
5. Refit the element and bowl. Check the hose to the carburettor or inlet manifold for splits and loose clips.

Points, plugs & ignition timing

Steps

1. Inspect the distributor cap and rotor arm for cracks and tracking.
2. Set the points gap to 0.014–0.016 in (0.35–0.40 mm) with the heel on a cam peak. Replace points and condenser if pitted.
3. Lubricate the cam felt with a drop of oil.
4. Check and gap all six plugs to 0.029–0.032 in (0.75–0.80 mm); NGK B6ES. The rear cylinders run hottest; compare their plug colour with the front ones.
5. Set the ignition timing to the figure in your manual.

Check & adjust valve clearances

Steps

1. Remove the rocker cover. Note whether your engine is set hot or cold (see below) and work accordingly.
2. Number the valves 1–8 from the front of the engine.
3. Clearances: Inlet 0.006 in (0.15 mm), exhaust 0.010 in (0.25 mm).
4. Slacken the locknut, turn the adjuster until the feeler gauge is a light drag, hold the adjuster and tighten the locknut, then re-check.
5. Refit the rocker cover with a new gasket. Run the engine and check for oil leaks.

Carburettor service & damper oil

Steps

1. Unscrew the damper cap on top of the carburettor and top up the hollow piston rod with oil to about ¼ in below the top.
2. Clean the fuel pump gauze and check fuel hoses.
3. Check the linkages and set idle speed and mixture with the engine warm.

Fan / auxiliary belt check

Steps

1. With the engine stopped, inspect the belt for cracks across the ribs, glazing, fraying and oil contamination.
2. Check tension: about ½ in (12 mm) deflection midway along the longest run under firm thumb pressure. Self-tensioning belts: check the tensioner sits within its marks and does not judder with the engine running.
3. Spin the alternator (or dynamo), water pump and idler pulleys by hand where you can. Listen for rumbling bearings.
4. On a dynamo (Lucas C40, early vehicles): put 2–3 drops of engine oil in the hole in the rear end-plate bearing.

Coolant drain, flush & refill

Steps

1. Work on a cold engine only. Remove the expansion tank or radiator cap slowly.
2. Open the radiator drain (or remove the bottom hose) and the cylinder block drain tap or plug. Set the heater to hot.
3. Flush with clean water until it runs clear. Squeeze every hose: replace any that feel soft, crunchy or swollen.
4. Check the radiator fins, fan blades and (where fitted) the viscous coupling. A viscous fan should turn with some resistance when the engine is warm.
5. Refill with a 50% antifreeze mix (≈10.4 L (2¾ US gal), 50% ethylene-glycol antifreeze). Fill slowly to avoid air locks; on coil-sprung models use the bleed screw on the thermostat housing or radiator top where fitted.
6. Run the engine to working temperature with the cap off (or loose), top up as the level drops, refit the cap and check again when cold.

Grease propshafts & nipples

Steps

1. Wipe each nipple clean before you attach the gun.
2. Grease both universal joints and the sliding spline on the front and rear propshafts until fresh grease shows at the seals.
3. Early vehicles (Series I and early Series II): grease the spring shackle pins and any other nipples on the chassis.
4. Check each UJ for play by twisting the shaft against the flange. Any clunk means a new joint.

Check swivel housing oil & seals

Steps

1. Remove the level plug on the rear of each swivel housing. Oil should be level with the hole.
2. Top up through the filler plug if low.
3. Look at the chrome ball. Deep pitting or rust where the seal runs means re-chroming or a new ball.
4. Oil on the inside of the wheel or brake back-plate means a leaking hub seal; deal with it before it reaches the brake shoes.

Change swivel housing oil

Steps

1. Remove the drain plug on each swivel housing and let it drain.
2. Refit the drain plug and fill to the level plug.
3. Milky oil means water ingress: check the swivel seal and the axle breathers.

Check gearbox, transfer & axle oil levels

Steps

1. Park level. Remove the level plugs on the gearbox, transfer box, and front and rear differentials in turn.
2. Oil should reach the bottom of each level hole. Top up as needed.
3. Note any box that needs a lot of oil; find the leak (output seals, gasket, breather).

Change gearbox & transfer box oil

Steps

1. Drive to warm the oil. Drain the gearbox and transfer box.
2. Clean the magnetic drain plugs.
3. Refill each to its level plug with the specified oil.

Change front & rear axle oil

Steps

1. Drain both differentials while warm.
2. Check the drain plugs for metal. A little fine paste is normal; chips are not.
3. Refill to the level plugs. Check the axle breathers are clear.

Steering box, relay & joints check

Steps

1. Check the steering box oil level (filler plug on top of the box) and top up.
2. Check the relay: on oil-filled relays top up through the plug under the bonnet in the front panel.
3. With a helper rocking the steering wheel, watch each joint in turn: box output, relay, drag link ends, track rod ends. Any visible lost motion is wear.
4. Check swivel pin preload: disconnect the track rod and check the effort to turn the swivel. Adjust with shims under the top swivel pin.

Adjust drum brakes & handbrake

Steps

1. Chock the wheels and jack each wheel clear of the ground in turn.
2. Turn each snail-cam adjuster on the back-plate until the shoes lock the drum, then back it off until the wheel just turns freely.
3. Two-leading-shoe front brakes (109): adjust both cams on each wheel.
4. Handbrake: the drum is on the back of the transfer box. Adjust it at the back-plate adjuster until the lever holds the vehicle on 3–4 clicks.
5. Check the fluid level and road-test in a safe place.

Inspect brake shoes, cylinders & hoses

Steps

1. Remove each drum. Do not blow the dust about; wipe with brake cleaner.
2. Check lining thickness and that linings are not oily.
3. Peel back the wheel cylinder boots. Fluid behind them means a leak; replace the cylinder.
4. Check every flexible hose for cracks and bulges, and the steel pipes for rust under the clips.

Brake & clutch fluid change

Steps

1. Bleed each wheel starting with the one furthest from the master cylinder, until clean fluid comes through with no bubbles.
2. Keep the reservoir topped up the whole time so no air gets in.
3. Bleed the clutch slave cylinder the same way.
4. Check pedal feel is firm before driving.

Leaf springs, U-bolts & shackles

Steps

1. Look along each spring for cracked or slipped leaves.
2. Lever each shackle and spring eye: any movement means worn bushes.
3. Check U-bolt nuts are tight and the axle has not shifted on the spring.
4. Check shock absorbers for leaks and bushes for wear.

Wheel bearing play check

Steps

1. Jack each wheel clear. Grip the tyre top and bottom and rock it.
2. Any noticeable play: remove the hub cap and drive member, then adjust the inner hub nut as your manual describes and lock it with a new tab washer.
3. Spin the wheel and listen for rumbling bearings.

Chassis & bulkhead inspection, rust-proofing

Steps

1. Wash the underside thoroughly and let it dry.
2. Tap the chassis with a small hammer. A dull thud or flaking means rust. Check the rear crossmember, the outriggers, the spring hangers and around the rear body mounts.
3. Check the bulkhead footwells, the door pillar bottoms and the top rail under the windscreen. Lift the footwell mats and look for daylight.
4. Check the fuel tank straps and brake pipe clips.
5. Inject cavity wax into the chassis rails through the existing holes and treat any bare metal.

Annual safety inspection

Steps

1. Lights: every light works, including brake lights, indicators, reverse light and number plate light.
2. Wipers and washers clear the screen. Horn works.
3. Seat belts latch, retract and are not frayed. Seat mounts are secure.
4. Exhaust: no blows and the mountings are secure.
5. Tyres: tread depth, cuts, bulges and age. Check the spare too.
6. Brakes pull up straight and the handbrake holds on a hill.

Monthly walk-round checks

Steps

1. Engine oil on the dipstick between the marks.
2. Coolant level (check cold), brake and clutch fluid levels, washer fluid.
3. Tyre pressures (including the spare) and look for cuts.
4. Look under the vehicle where it has been parked. Note the colour of any drips: brown/black = oil, green/blue/orange = coolant, red = ATF or PAS, clear and slippery = brake fluid.
5. All lights work.